Madeleines: Those Tasty French Tarts

It is early morning and you are in a hurry. Quickly downing your first espresso of the morning, you noticed a jar of small, yellow cakes. You peer at the collection and recall (or perhaps you asked out of curiosity), “What are those?"

“Madeleines,” you are told.

“That’s nice,” you think and then on a whim decide to try one. It has a light texture and a hint of lemon. In less than a minute you have consumed it all and wonder about a second one.

These delightful French cakes are called Madeleines. Madeleine being the French form of Magdalene. Did Mary Magdalene make these?

Probably not, but it would make a good story to think that the repentant Magdalene decided to bake a sweet cake for the Lord’s company. Perhaps a reminder of honey cakes made for sacrifices to gods of the ancient world. Perhaps Caravaggio even had her holding one in his Penitent Magdalene before it reached its known form.

Nice story it would be. However, the real story, just as interesting and far more believable begins not so very long ago in France. Madeleines hit literary fame because Marcel Proust mentions them in his À la recherche du temps perdu (Remembrance of Things Past) published in 1923.

In a short passage he describes the cake, how he ate it and, very telling for Proust, how it produced a sensual response. You probably didn’t do it, but Proust dipped his Madeleine in his coffee (you might want to try it—but not too long lest the cake fall to the bottom). He calls the cakes petites madeleines which suggests that perhaps there was a larger version already in existence. Read an excerpt.

But whether there was or whether the appellation was just a sweet comment on their size, we still have to discover their origin.

Two theories hold competing prominence, though I would prefer the second.

One says that a young girl, Madeleine (of course!) who lived in the small village of Commercy, in the Lorraine region of France, had an occasion to meet the lately toppled king of Poland, Stanislas Leszczynski who had been exiled to Lorraine (and who was otherwise famous as the father of Marie Leszczynska, the wife of Louis XV). For some unknown reason (who needs a reason to bake a sweet cake for a friend or acquaintance?), she baked him this sweet treat. Perhaps she only had a small tart pan at hand or she wanted to tease him with just a small taste at a time. In any case, the king, enamored of the cake and the baker, called them affectionately, ‘madeleines’

The other explanation and the one that seems to have some stronger claim to the truth is that the cakes were baked and sold by nuns who might have lived in a long abandoned convent dedicated to Mary Magdalene, having adopted the recipe from an early tradition among the boulangeries of Commercy.

This story would fit with other names of monasteries being associated with their respective products, most notably perhaps Benedictine as a type of brandy produced by Benedictine monks of Fécamp. In other words, as the monks’ brandy might have been first called in French la liqueur bénédictine then shortened to (la) bénédictine, so too the cakes may have started as something like gâteux de Madeleine, then shorted to Madeleine.

Less certain (if we can be any less certain) is why they have a compressed scallop shape. There seems to be no other explanation but that the nuns or dear little Madeleine used a sort of tart pan to make the cakes quickly and easily. Or perhaps the nuns of Commercy were simply good marketers. Make a few small cakes to sell quickly and avoid waste. The little cake caught on as a quick treat, easily cupped in the hand and popped into the mouth.

Madeleines are delightful and whether tasted in a local coffee shop (dipped or not) or on a French avenue are sure to invite discussion of nuns, Polish kings and repentant prostitutes. Or maybe not.

For a recipe, check out: Recipe Zaar. For some other interesting unusual histories of food, read Patricia Stevens', Rare Bits: Unusual Origins of Popular Recipes.



Tom
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No Bones About It: Aztecs Ate Spanish Captives

Research confirms that Aztecs sacrificed their Spanish enemies, including children, and ate them.

The remains of some 550 people were found at the site of Zultapec. The victims were imprisoned in small cages. The sacrifices took place over days and, no doubt, those alive heard the noises of sacrifice.

The Conquistador Cortéz renamed the place Tecuaque when he heard of the sacrifices. He then sent troops to destroy it.

Anticipating the attack, the Aztecs attempted to remove evidence of the victims by throwing their belongings down wells. Unknown to them, they saved important artifacts for future study.

For a complete story, read Reuters UK: "Boiled bones show Aztecs butchered, ate invaders".

Tom

Gnocchi di Susine: Chef Mario Batali adds his recipe

Some time ago, I wrote about one of my favorite northern Italian dishes, Gnocchi di Susine.

I recently noticed that the Food Network chef, Mario Batali, has provided his version of this treat on an episode (Nonna Triestina) of his show, Molto Mario.

You can download his recipe from the Food Network site but you need to be registered (I am!).

Tom
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Travel Tips: RFID Passports (Update)

In a previous post, "RFID Passports and Protection" (March 16, 2006), I discussed the issues with radio frequency identification (RFID) technology to be used in US Passports. There is no consensus on the security of this technology, but the US Government is going ahead with its plan for RFID requirements in US Passports.

Read "RFID passports arrive for Americans" (August 14, 2006) on CNet/News.com for more details.

The Electronic Privacy Information Center (EPIC) has issued its concerns (read the report here in PDF format) about this technology to the Department of Homeland Security. EPIC noted that "personal data contained in hi-tech passports [is] vulnerable to unauthorized access." EPIC also cites the Department of Homeland Security's own report indicating that deficiencies in the scanning process may actually keep guards from focusing on the person entering the country. Security expert, Bruce Schneier, commenting on the same technology proposed for I-94 immigration forms, warns that "travelers carrying around RFID passports are broadcasting their identity."

The Government argues that RFID passports are 'passive'. That is to say, they must be activated by a scanner. Therefore, it continues, no one is simply 'broadcasting' sensitive information. Unfortunately, such a scanner can easily be created and used inappropriately. Recall the clip from my previous post showing the ease of hacking (a Dutch TV show; hacking occurs at about 6:40 in the video; the explanation is that the numbers are sequential and connected to the expiration date).

What to do?
While you may still need to comply with the government regulations, remember that you can still protect yourself from unauthorized access to the sensitive information stored on the chip. In my previous post, I mentioned ways of protecting yourself, including a specially designed wallet or portmanteau or even using duct tape.

For the Government's official position see, US Department of State: The US Electronic Passport.

Tom

Travel Tips: Plan Ahead to Avoid Delay at Airport Check in and Screening

Just as travelers began to adjust to security changes following the events of Sept. 11, 2001, and the TSA started to streamline screening, a whole new set of regulations has been implemented.

In the wake of the London terrorist threat, the TSA implemented a stringent new set of criteria. These include a ban on almost all carry on luggage.

On ABC's "This Week", Homeland Security Secretary Michael Chertoff said, "I don't see us moving to a total ban on hand baggage at this point." Presumably, that means that there may be a reprieve on some restrictions.

To find the latest on allowed carry-on items, please
visit: http://www.tsa.gov/ to download the "Prohibited Items Brochure."

Here is a summary from the TSA.gov website:

Liquids, gels and lotions cannot be taken through the security check point, but they can be purchased and then discarded before boarding the aircraft. This restriction on "liquids, gels and lotions" includes anything with a liquid consistency or component: shampoo, toothpaste, perfume, hair gel, suntan lotion, gel deodorant, etc. Exceptions to the "no liquid, gels and lotions" policy include: Baby formula and breast milk if a baby or small child is traveling; prescription medicine with a name that matches the passenger's ticket; up to 8 oz of liquid or gel insulin and up to 4 oz. of non-prescription liquid medications.

All aerosols are banned unless it is a prescription medicine. Note: Make sure your asthma or COPD inhaler has a complete prescription label attached to the plastic case! If you don't have a label, go to your pharmacy to get one before flying.

Lighters are still banned and you still have to take that laptop out of the case for security screening.

Some banned items that may surprise you: Alcohol gel hand sanitizer , baby teething ring with gel, gel candies, gel capsule medications, gel shoe inserts, lip gloss, and mascara.

It is important to remember that bringing banned items to the security check point, even by accident, is "illegal" according to the TSA. Also, shoes MUST be removed and screened by the x-ray machine. While most airports have encouraged travelers to remove shoes, it has not been mandatory until now.

Traveling to the UK? Be aware that passengers traveling to the United Kingdom will be subject to more extensive security screening processes, including a physical inspection of baggage at the departure gate.

Tips to avoid frustration--here is what I do:

1. I plan ahead
2. I allow myself plenty of time to get to the airport. The changes are new for the TSA security screeners and they are having to adjust to a more intense screening process and they are as frustrated as we are! For domestic flights, I check in online and print my boarding pass from home. Even if I have luggage to check, this can expedite the check-in process. Also, I arrive at the airport at least 2 hours prior to the departure of my flight. Take a book or an iPod and enjoy any spare time you may have once you get checked in and through screening.
3. I review the items in my carry-on and only pack essentials To avoid last minute shuffling of things from my carry-on, I make sure I review the list of banned items and place banned items in my checked luggage. This saves frustration and embarrassment at the security line.
4. I am prepared for increased scrutiny at security check points. The TSA personnel are going to be scrutinizing carry-ons very closely so I expect them to rummage through my personal effects.
5. I am prepared to remove my shoes. It is now mandatory! I wear shoes that I can easily slip on and off with socks so that I don't have to walk barefoot!

Other considerations

If you wear contact lenses and have problems with dry eyes, you may want to wear your glasses during the flight. Contact solution and lens wetting drops are prohibited.

For travelers with medical conditions, ensure that all medications and devices are labeled properly by your pharmacy. All prescriptions must be labeled by the pharmacy and include the name of the ticketed passenger. Frequently asthma inhalers, nitroglycerin sublingual and other medical devices such as insulin syringes and blood glucose test strips and lancet are not labeled or the box with the label is discarded. To be on the safe side, check with your pharmacy and ask them to label all medications and devices before you fly.

If you have a medical condition that require that you eat frequently or that you drink fluids to prevent dehydration, you can still purchase food and drinks beyond the security check point. However, these items must be consumed before boarding the aircraft. Notify aircraft personnel upon boarding of any special needs you have.

For travelers to the UK, restrictions are much more stringent and currently all carry on baggage (including electronics such as laptops, cell phones, iPods and music players) is restricted (varies depending upon airline and airport). You are allowed to have a clear plastic bag containing your travel documents. This is likely to ease up in the next several days so check with your airline website prior to departure to get an update list of restrictions.

Finally, despite all these restrictions that can make flying a hassle, remember that there is a big, wonderful world out there waiting to be explored! Do not let these restrictions or fear prevent you from flying. Whether you are flying to spend time with family or traveling to see the world, be safe and have fun!

Tom
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Travel Tips: Overcharging Tourists is Nothing New--How to Protect Yourself

One of the greatest horrors of travel is to sit down to what seems a casual, comfy café for a quick little meal only to find yourself with a bill that is way beyond what you had budgeted. It happens frequently. Sometimes, we just don't pay attention to the location or the menu. But sometimes, it is because we have been spotted as a tourist and we will be charged higher tourist prices.

"No," you say. "That cannot be, not in a modern Europe." "That only happens in places like China or South America."

Sorry.

It can happen anywhere and does.

Cases in point:

Madrid, Plaza Mayor

Ah, the lovely Spanish summer has begun and as my companion and I make our way through the streets to the famed Plaza Mayor, we feel the desire to sample those famous tapas--little nibbles of food for a good price. Warmly invited to a café, we sit down and say, "Oh, we'll just have some shrimp, some mushrooms, some olives...." You get the picture. Then, one hour later, the bill arrives and it is nearly $100. "What!" We scurry through the menu and realize that we were given the most expensive type of each item. (And, by the way, don't bother with tapas in Madrid--they are always overpriced. Enjoy them in Seville. They originated there and the prices are far more reasonable. To make your own at home, see my "Tapas made simple".)

Rome, Piazza Navona

Again, a major tourist location, so you should expect to pay higher prices anyway. But be careful of the overfriendly waiters inviting you to sample a 'tourist' menu. Sometimes these can be a value, but in this case, it was anything but. The food was good, but by the time we had finished, we were out well over $100 per person. (And, by the way, there is a small, welcome relief from excessive prices near here: gelato at Tre Scalini is very good and decently priced. See my post: Where to Go for Gelato in Rome?)

Prague, Staromestske Namesti

The Old Town Square has charm. No doubt about that. It's got that famous clock that has the interesting skeleton chiming the bells, and it has hoards of tourists. But it also has excessive prices and separate menus for tourists.



Sitting down for a comfortable dinner you find the menu is littered with glitzy pictures and English, German, French and Italian (and more). They will follow the menu all right, but bets are good that the table just down two from you where the locals are dining (if they are at all) will pay half as much as you do.

Ok, enough examples...

Some among you may want to point out that the places I have listed above are tourist traps. They are the most well-known and most well-visited places in each of these cities. Very true. But the point is that you can still get a good priced meal in those places without being taken for a ride.

Read more about this situation in a recent article: New York Times, "Diner Beware: Turisti Pay More in Roman Restaurants".

How can you protect yourself?

1. Ask your hotel personnel for recommendations and be clear that you want a place that will not overcharge.

2. Ask around, use the internet or use a guidebook to get some feel for what price you should expect to pay.

3. Insist on seeing the menu. True, you may get a 'tourist' menu that has higher prices, but at least you can then make sure the prices compare to what is on your bill.

4. If the bill comes with only numbers, ask for an explanation of each charge.

5. Watch out for hidden cover charges and gratuities--read the fine print!

6. Make a list of what your table has ordered so that by the time the bill does come you can quickly compare. (One place I sometimes go really appreciated it when I had a large group of travelers: they used my list for the orders!)

Some other considerations when dining while traveling:

• If you do not speak the language well, do not insist on speaking louder or acting exasperated. Try your best to communicate calmly and ask for an explanation of the charges. If it fails, pay the bill and then tell your hotelier. They may very well pass the word of disappointment on.
• Remember that by sitting down for a meal instead of taking it away, you are going to pay more.
• 'Hot spots' for tourists are always going to cost more. If you are exhausted after a morning of walking and 'just don't care, I just want to eat', then be prepared for the higher prices.
• You do not need to feel compelled to eat in the most popular locations. Often just around a corner is a place with as good or better food for lesser price and a place that won't overcharge.

In the end, some places are just out to make the quickest money possible. There will always be places that overcharge tourists, and, though it is hard to admit, all of us will, at one time or another, be caught by the trap. Perhaps we were with a large group that was unruly due to hunger or perhaps we had a magnificent moment in front of a Renaissance painting and were too overwhelmed to question the restaurant. Remember that next time and try not to let it happen again.

Most of all, don't let this stop you from enjoying your travels! It is part of the adventure and one of those memories that we can recount for a very long time to come!

Tom
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Bad restaurant in Paris

Sometimes you just have to say it like it is.

Le Palais de la Griserie is not a very good Chinese and Thai food restaurant in Paris.

The lady who greeted me and took my order was nice enough. But the waiter who served me was so put upon to even open the wine that my entire dinner was spoiled.

My hot and sour soup (Soupe pekingnese) was marginal. The spicy chicken (poulet a l'imperial) was all right. The prawn crackers were actually good. The Bordeaux was too cold and the water arrived late.

To top it all off, the bill was overcharged for a boisson (drink) and then the waiter failed to bring me my change!

Restaurant "Le Palais de la Griserie"
13, Rue Lagrange
75005 Paris
01 43 54 46 75
Métro: Maubert-Mutualité
No website

Tom

Artists and Writers: Felice Varini

Finding new art in Paris is always a treat.

Today, while I was visiting my friend Jean Demélier (Artists and Writers: Jean Demélier), he pointed out to me some work of Felice Varini. Varini and Demélier are friends, so Demélier is particularly well-placed to explain Varini's work.

Varini plays around with point of view and perspective. He wants us to look at the world of human-made things in a different way. Where we might see a set of buildings down a street or a long hallway with a series of doors and windows, he places lines of colored tape. Depending on our vantage point we see these lines as a random set of lines or we see a complete image that seems to float in space.

In another words, he creates "2D images in 3D space" (see Protein Feed). The images that are formed from the lines he places on objects create what appears to be an overlapping image. Sometimes he will tape lines that form stars, sometimes he places the colored tape in such a way that it seems a hole is in the floor or a painted building is where you would expect a grey one. The effect is an extraordinary trompe l'oeil or optical illusion. See Notes on the Denial of Perspective 02 for a further analysis.

The Varini lines I saw are placed along the buildings, including the Lariboisiere Hospital, that line the Rue Ambrose Paré leading to and including Gare du Nord in Paris. At first, the lines seem to be random images of red lines. The following image is a part of the creation, showing the 'random' lines.

Notice that the red lines seem to just be broken lines on a building.



















But then you are drawn to the lines and are forced to adjust your perspective. In doing so, the line creates a new image and it is one that is someone floating before the 'natural' image.













Here is the part of the road that leads down to Gare du Nord.













Varini has exhibited in Mamco - musée d'art Moderne et Contemporain, Geneva, Kunsthalle Bern, and the Centre Pompidou - Musée National d'Art Moderne, Paris (and many more, see ArtFacts.net).

For more on Varini, you might want to read the following.



Felice Varini
Point of View-Point de Vue

See also Point de Vue sur la Gare du Nord et l'Hopital Lariboisiere and lines and colors.

Tom

Artists and Writers : Lance Luschnig

Lance Luschnig is an amazing photographer. From when I first met him in Moscow, Idaho, I have continued to learn a great deal about photography from him.

The first works I saw of his were at an exhibit at the library in Moscow, Idaho. The series was called something like 'Reading' and was made up of photographs of people reading.

Later I saw other of Lance's work including various nudes and some beginning landscapes.

Lance has regularly worked with black and white film photography (that despite the prevalence of digital technology is still an art worth learning and using).

He has since moved on to computer manipulated work and has moved toward greater and greater abstraction.

Lance has shown in New York, Chicago, Paris (Galerie a l'enseigne des Oudins) besides locally in Moscow, Idaho and Spokane, Washington.

As I have a few more available, I will add some samples below. For now, here are two abstracts.

Tom

A Paris Gem: Saint-Pierre de Montmartre

Every once in a while you find some really great gem in a city that is one of the most visited places on earth.

While I was wandering Paris, taking pictures, I decided I would go up to Montmartre and Sacré Coeur. That church is interesting in its own right, but it is very crowded and to be quite honest, not half as interesting as another church that it dwarfs.

Just to the left of Sacré Coeur (as you see look at it from the front) is the little church of Saint-Pierre de Montmartre. This gem of a find is the third oldest church in Paris behind Notre Dame and Saint-Germain de Prés. But, while the megathrongs of tourists were wondering (a bit blindly) through Sacré Coeur, barely a sole bothered to stop by this intriguing though worn down church teeming with history.

Built over the top of a Roman temple to Mars, the church was constructed by Benedictine nuns who received the appointment from King Louis VI (le Gros) and Queen Alix of Savoy. In 1147, it was consecrated by Pope Eugenius III who was in town to celebrate Easter mass with the likes of Bernard of Clairvaux and Peter the Venerable of Cluny.

The church has several claims to fame. Queen Alix was buried there, though her tomb was destroyed during the French Revolution. St. Ignatius Loyola, St. Francis Xavier and Peter Fabre, pronounced their vows here, creating the Society of Jesus (Jesuits). And the location is near where St. Denis (Dionysius) was said to have lost his head at the command of a Roman governor (and from whence he carried his head down the hill to the site of the present-day Church of St. Denis).

The church is beautiful. Do yourself a favor and avoid the crowds at Sacré Coeur. Do yourself a favor and enjoy a small gem in Paris!

Saint-Pierre de Montmartre
2, Rue du Mont-Cenis (Place du Tertre)
75018 Paris
Métro: Anvers, Abbesses
Funiculaire: Place Suzanne Valadon
No website


Tom

Artists and Writers: Jean Demélier

It occurred to me while in Paris that I should mention a few things about two good friends of mine who are tremendous artists (and one is also a writer).

Jean Demélier has been writing and painting most of his life. Born in Poitiers in 1940, he has lived in France, England and Germany. He currently resides in Paris and continuously works every single day.

I first met Jean when I was visiting another friend, Lance Luschnig (see Artists and Writers: Lance Luschnig), who was showing his photographic work at Galerie a l'enseigne des Oudins (58, Rue Quincampoix 75004 Paris, 01 42 71 83 65).

Walking into Jean's apartment is like walking into a museum. It is livable, but every turn there is some creating that is worth discussing.

I have had many good, long talks with him and always struck by his particular take on politics or religion.

The first book I read of his was Le Rêve de Job, and enticing tale of a father and son with a complex interplay of intellect, sensuality and life, intertwined with chess.



Le Rêve de Job

His has myriad other books; very recently a book of his sketches, Life Lines was published by Oasis Books. He also has a large number of sketches, paintings and mixed-media works. Below are some samples of his sketches as well as a sample of his other art.

Tom

Indian Food in Paris

Wandering the streets in search of good food of any sort in a place like Paris can be rather daunting. Fortunately, my good friend Jean Demélier (a writer and artist--see Artists and Writers: Jean Demélier) was my guide for finding some scrumptious and inexpensive food.

Three different times we visited the Thensurabi restaurant for Indian cuisine. The restaurant, located near the Gare du Nord is small, warm in the summer and heavily trafficked by local Indians. The food is well-priced for the quantity and the flavor has been consistently good.

If you are staying near the Gare du Nord or are willing to go out of the city center, the Thensurabi is worth a visit. Do not expect anything fancy, just good food and friendly service.

The house Bordeaux and Rosé are pleasant. They do offer an Indian red, but it is much higher priced ano particularlyyay palatable.

For a three course meal consisting of Tandoori Chicken, Vadai (a falafel-like creation with vegetables) and Curry rice with Chicken, my meal was only €9. The small bottle of wine, shared cost me only €3. The portions were good-sized but not overwhelming. Such prices are hard to find in the Paris city center.

Do choose a seat outside if available. Inside is quite warm, especially in the summer heat. Also do be aware that street noise can be extensive.

Thensurabi
60 Louis Blanc
75010 Paris
01 40 34 42 54
Métro: La Chapelle or Gare du Nord (also RER)
No website

Tom

Victor Hugo's House in Paris

In my earlier post (Paris and Sewers), I said that I was going to visit the Musée du Quai Branly. The line was once again exceedingly long, so I continued on my way. In that same post I mentioned Victor Hugo so I decided to visit the museum in one of his houses.

La Maison de Victor Hugo, L'Hôtel de Rohan-Guéménée, located in the Place des Vosges (formerly Place Royal). The house is a charming 3-4 story. The ground floor has a small shop and a video presentation. The first floor shows drawings by Victor Hugo and illustrations by various artists inspired by his works.

The second floor shows the arrangement of the house proper, including a living room in Chinese style, a dining room in medievalstyle and the room in which he died.

Admission is free. It is well-worth a visit and can be a quick stop on your itinerary.

A couple of his works you might consider:




Les Misérables
Notre-Dame de Paris




Maison de Victor Hugo
6, Place des Vosges
75004 Paris
1 42 10 16
Website
Closed Mondays
Free Admission

The other house maintained as a museum is on Guernsey:

38 Hauteville
Saint-Peter-Port
Guernsey
Channel Islands
1 481 721 911

Closed Sundays
Guided tours only

Exploring the Sewers of Paris

I am always on the look out for the unusual or out-of-the-way things to do in a city like Paris. I love the Louvre, the d'Orsay and many of the typical places, but it is always fun and exciting to find something very different.

Yesterday, I was going to visit the new Musée du Quai Branly with its African, American, Asian(and more) collections. The line was too long so I will do that today. (Watch for the post.)

But walking along the river toward Notre Dame, I noticed an exit seemingly coming out of no where. At first, I thought it must be an emergency exit from the RER station but as I walked on I noticed a small kiosk and a group of people in line. "What could that be," I thought to myself.

As I ogled the crowd and the kiosk, I saw the word 'égouts'. Scanning my mental French dictionary, I could not recall this word. So I dug into my sachel and fished out my paper dictionary: sewers.

Sewers? This is a tour of the sewers? Intriguing. Perhaps disgusting, but intriguing, nonetheless. After all, how many ruined Roman sewers, aqueducts, baths and more had I explored. What made a modern sewer so much different. Well, there is the potential presence of actual waste!

In any case, I was intrigued and bought the ticket (only €4) and descended the first set of stairs.
Now, I have always been fascinated by what lies below. Just think of the miles of tunnels underlying a major metropolitan city. There are sewers, subways, parking areas, and more. Just by going to the metro, one descends any number of years into the past.

The Musée des Égouts has got to be one of the least visited but most fascinating museums in Paris. Situated on the left bank side of the Pont de l'Alma (Place de la Résistance), the museum is easily missed. There is a sign indicating its presence, but it is a bit overwhelmed by the roadway directional signs pointing to Invalides, Charles de Gaulle-Étoile and a plethora more.

That the museum is not busy gives you ample time to wonder about how fresh water gets to the city and how waste water gets out. And you can take your time reading the informational panels and looking at the equipment used to keep the sewers clean.

There is a lot here, but perhaps the two most interesting things to me were: 1) that there is a communicating tunnel under the Seine that takes waste water from the Left Bank to the Right Bank; and, 2) that until the Middle Ages drinking water was taken from the Seine.

Ok, there is one more interesting point: Victor Hugo has Jean Valjean carry the body of Marius through the sewers. Makes me want to read Les Misérables again.

Paris page
History of Sewers (more interesting page, with pictures)

Tom

On Archimedes and Palimpsests

Take a piece of paper and a pencil with medium-hard and dark lead. Now write something on the paper with that pencil. Anything will do--just write.

Now, erase. Yes, I said, erase. But don't obliterate. Just make the appearance of writing go away.

Now turn the paper sideways and write something else.

You have just created a palimpsest. "A what?" You say.

A palimpsest: writing material with something erased and used again. That simple.

That is just what happened to a text written by Archimedes. Or better, several texts by Archimedes, one by Hyperides and some other parchment texts.

This is not anything new: there are plenty of palimpsests out there.

But the science, mathematics, history and classics fields are all abuzz with the revelation of the text of the Syracusan, Archimedes.

The texts, found beneath the text of a 13th century Byzantine set of Greek prayers provides these fields with the only Greek texts of Archimedes' The Method of Mechanical Theorems and Stomachion (a game played with polygons arranged to form a square (see Stomachion: Introduction) from which the player would attempt to create interesting shapes), and the only Greek text of one: On Floating Bodies.

The other parchment used also contains a text from 4th century BC orator, Hyperides. This is the most complete text of his; the rest survive only in small fragments.

And there is much more to the palimpsest: there are Neoplatonic texts, more liturgical works and some, as of yet, undeciphered texts.

Simply put the Archimedes Palimpsest is an incredible find. The prayer book was identified as a palimpsest containing Archimedes as early as 1899 but it was not until 1998 that the book made it into the public sphere where it could be properly examined and deciphered. See more at NPR: A Prayer Book's Secret: Archimedes Lies Beneath.

Now imagine that you are baking some tasting cookies or other item requiring butter. For some reason you cannot measure the amount of butter you need (let's say, 1 cup). But you then remember something your mother told you. Take a large measuring cup (say, 4 cups), fill it with cold water to 3 cups and then slowly drop in chunks of butter. When the water level reaches the 4 cup mark you know you have 1 cup of butter. You might say "Eureka!"

This is just what Archimedes is reported to have said when he discovered the principle of buoyancy. As the story goes, King Hiero of Syracuse was suspicious of a metalworker charged with designing a pure gold crown, thinking that he might have taken some of the gold provided him and replaced it with silver. Hiero asked Archimedes to investigate but he was not allowed to damage the crown in anyway.

Supposedly, as one does, Archimedes took a bath when faced with a seemingly unsolvable problem. But this solved it for him. As he gingerly sat himself in the water (or maybe he just jumped in), he noticed the overflow. He didn't freak as some of us might as seeing so much water spill everywhere.

Instead, he realized that his body--of a certain density--displaced a measurable amount of water. Knowing that gold is denser than silver, he realized that he could give the crown a bath and solve the problem. Running naked through the streets, he shouted, "Eureka!" (Greek for "I found (the solution)".)

Perhaps the poor scribe (whose name we know (an interesting fact in itself): Johannes Myronas) was only trying to clothe the crazy Greek before setting down his sacred tracts!

In any case, we now have a tremendous cultural artifact.

Tom

More good food in Paris

Spending lots of time in Paris means that you do not always eat French food. In fact, there are plenty of other good food places to be found.

Tonight I went out on a limb.

I was hungry for Pho Bac; it was raining (after some very hot days) and I was starving! While waiting for my laundry, I noticed a Vietnamese restaurant called Minh Ðuc. I had seen it before but never really thought much about it.

The place is a bit nondescript. Windows from the main street side are covered with bamboo shades. The sign seems a bit worn with age, red letters fading with each sunny day. The main door, too, is deceiving: it is not the actual 'main' door.

The tables are nicely laid and the atmosphere is typically Vietnamese: red napkins, music playing and a Buddha shrine in the corner. But the place was empty.

I was greeted warmly by a man who spoke little English (this, in the heart of the Sorbonne--a major tourist area--is a big plus on my list!). I told him I wanted Pho. He understood immediately.

I was presented with prawn crackers (the best I have ever had; usually they are way too 'fishy') and my wine.

I was impressed with the Pho. It was served in a smaller size bowl than usual in the US (and, really, about the right amount). The broth was savory but not dramatic. That left room for the full-flavor taste of the beef--not shreds of beef as in the US, but tender chunks. I always add chili paste and that only complemented the flavor of the broth. Bean sprouts and mint leaves on the side rounded out the experience.

No one else was there, so it was hard to get a feel for the atmosphere. I suspect that the location is not serving it well, but I certainly intend to try some of the other dishes. (And to those who have passed it by, I say, "You don't know what you are missing!")

Minh Ðuc
8, Rue de la Montagne Sainte Geneviève
75005 Paris
01 46 33 31 96
Métro: Maubert-Mutualité

(The address listed is the address the restaurant gives, though if you search for it, the address 1, Rue Basse des Carmes will show up: that is the real 'main' entrance, located on a small square.)

No credit cards; no website.

Tom

St. Petersburg: Hermitage Museum suffers theft

A sad day in the art world. Thieves have stolen some 200 items from the famous Hermitage Museum in St. Petersburg. The museum has one of the best collections in the world including Greek and Roman items, works by da Vinci, Raphael, Titian, Rembrandt, Holbein, Mengs, Michelangelo, Mazzuoli and much, much more.

Read more: Hermitage hit by mystery thieves (from BBC News).

If you have a chance to go to St. Petersburg, the Hermitage is a must. Visit the museum's website: Hermitage Museum. The website is extensive with highlights, exhibition information and a virtual museum.

Tom

Mars is its closest to earth

This is an exciting time in astronomic circles. Mars' orbit will bring it to within its closest distance for some 70,000 years. Imagining how this event will strike us, we can't help but wonder how such astronomic events influenced ancient peoples.

Read about the event: Orbital Oddities: Why Mars will be So Close to Earth in August (from Space.com).

Tom