Divers find Caesar of 46 B.C.

An incredible find of statuary has been unburied near Arles, previously hidden by the muddy bottom of the Rhone river. If the date of 46BC for the bust of Caesar is correct, then this is the oldest image of Julius Caesar we have.

From SFGate.com: Divers find Caesar bust that may date to 46 B.C.

For an image of the bust, showing an aging Caesar, visit Physorg.com

Tom

Zeugma: City and Figure of Speech

Mention the names of the rivers Tigris and Euphrates and many people today will immediately think of Iraq and the strategic location of Baghdad.

Of course, the importance of these rivers, if we remember well into our past, is biblical, mythological and legendary.

Along the two rivers, many important cities have risen, thrived and been destroyed. Ancient Babylon is not so very far away from modern Baghdad.

But a city that shares its name with a figure of speech has lost its match with human destiny.

Ancient Zeugma (or more properly, the twin cities of Seleucia and Apamea) was the literal link between cultures. The Romans built a bridge between the two cities--the only bridge over the Euphrates built in ancient times--and called the union Zeugma; Greek for a band, yoke or bridge, or a yoking or a joining. The new city became the garrison town of legio IV Scythica of the Roman army.

The ancient city eventually faded into memory, buried by Turkish sand; now it has been drowned. The need for water is a never ending need for humans, and one of our favorite structures is a dam. A dam can supply badly needed water for irrigation and for domestic use. The enormous lakes that result behind the dam can become popular recreation sites.

And it can (and often does) mean the drowning of past towns, cities and villages. Such was the fate of Zeugma when Turkey undertook to build a dam at Birecik. The flooding caused by the dam is significant, but archaeologists were able to persuade authorities to let them excavate as much as possible up to the flooding moment. Fortunately, there are some areas of Zeugma that now have a lakeside view and are giving up some fantastic ancient artifacts.

Finds at Zeugma before the flooding and currently have included Roman bronze armor, enormous mosaics, figures of Aphrodite and Mars.

While the ancient city lives no more, the figure of speech continues to survive, though we'd be hard pressed to find many who could call it by its name of the top of their heads.

A zeugma is when one word, such as a preposition or a verb, is used with two other words in different senses. For example, (slight variation on Shakespeare), "Lend me your ears and some money."

For an overview of the mosaics and archaeology at Zeugma, visit Nova and PBS.

Tom

Sign up for my newsletter.

Paris Sewers Redux

Sometime ago, I wrote about the sewers of Paris and the fascinating tour you can take through them (Exploring the Sewers of Paris). Once again I have thrilled at taking uncertain travelers through les égouts.

At first, everyone seems a bit put off. "You want me to do what?" I try to enchant them with the idea. First, I tell them that all the water that comes into Paris has to get out somehow, and ask them to imagine how many miles of underground streams there must be. I then tell them that the now-famous district, the Marais, is so named because it was a swamp. That swamp, thanks in part to the sewers, is now livable.

But the final clincher that really gets travelers in the mood is when I tell them that the Jean Valjean of Les Misérables used the sewers to move about Paris.

Then they go in.

Once in, and once over the sometimes obvious stench, they become as fascinated as I am. The smell isn't bothersome for too long and before we reach the exit, the conversation is filled with amazement and wonder.

So, have some fun next time you are in Paris and visit the sewers!

Tom
Sign up for my newsletter.

Seven Wonders of the Modern World

Most of us have heard of the Seven Wonders of the Ancient World. And perhaps we have even been to visit them.

Now you can add your vote for the Seven Wonders of the Modern World. There are some pretty incredible new wonders that are worth listing.

Click on the image below to become a part of this historic event.

You will need to register an email before you can vote, but it is worth it. Also, you only get to vote once, so make your choices wisely and then make a final submission.

Tom

PS. What are the Seven Wonders of the Ancient World?

They are the Pyramids of Giza, The Lighthouse (Pharos) of Alexandria, The Colossal Statue of Zeus in Olympia, the Colossal Statue of Helios guarding the harbor of Rhodes, the Mausoleum of Halicarnassus, the Temple of Artemis in Ephesus and the Hanging Gardens of Babylon.

Italian Renaissance Painter, Luini, on Stamp

The United States Postal Service has announced that among its commemorative stamps, the Italian Renaissance painter, Bernadino Luini's Madonna of the Carnation will appear.

The oil painting, showing the Madonna with a Christ Child on her lap, holding a small carnation, was painted in about 1515.

Luini (b. c.1470, d. c.1530) from Luino, a small village on Lago Maggiore, near Torino, was a member of the Lombard school. The Lombard school emulated Leonardo da Vinci. Since many of Luini's paintings are so daVinciesque, many have been falsely attributed to da Vinci.

The Madonna of the Carnation was painted when Luini was already well on his way to becoming a master. The painting is now in the Samuel H. Kress collection at the National Gallery of Art, Washington, DC.

More of Luini's work can be seen on Art.com.

Tom
Sign up for my newsletter

Pompeii Brothel reopened to the Public

In a previous post on Pompeii (House of the Flying Cupids open in Pompeii), I talked about the reopening of house with the amazing garden named after the so-called flying cupids. Now, visitors to Pompeii are treated to another reopening.

The famed brothel called the Lupanare has finally reopened a year of restoration work. The frescoes are lit up with special lighting and, among other things, the roof is free of leaks.

Read the Times article: Erotic frescoes put Pompeii brothel on the tourist map.

The Lupanare is not the only brothel in Pompeii, but it is one of the largest, the most interesting and one that has given a significant number of artifacts to research.

Tom
Sign up for my newsletter

Radicals among Us: Girolamo Savonarola

These days, it seems easy to throw around the word 'radical', accusing just about anyone of being radical in some way or another.

Of course, being radical means being annoying to some group of people, challenging to another and inspirational to still others. But no matter what it is, being radical can also bring more attention than one might hope.

Of the many radical characters in history, one is particularly fascinating. Not, perhaps, so much for his message but how powerful he was with his message.

In the days of Lorenzo de' Medici (the Magnificent), Michelangelo and Botticelli, there came a 'voice' of sorts 'out of the wilderness' (of sorts).

Girolamo Savonarola joined the Dominican order at Bologna. Sometime around 1490 Lorenzo himself insisted that Girolamo come to Florence. This may have been the beginning of the end.

Savonarola was fiery. He insisted on the strictest of cleanliness and purity. He preached against abuses in the church, gaining excommunication under Pope Alexander VI. And he preached against the vanities seemingly bred in this world of hypocrisy, domination and greed.

Perhaps the most disastrous moment from our historical hindsight was not that Savonarola was ultimately burned at the stake but that he called for the burning of works of art, books and whatever else might turn the faithful away from a pure and holy life. Sandro Botticelli, whose wonderful "Portrait of a Lady", "La Primavera", "Birth of Venus" and other works survive, succumbed to Savonarola's passionate preaching.

During Carnevale 1497, Savonarola's disgust at all those things that, for him, proclaimed vanity--masks, gowns, gluttonous consumption, art that portrayed nudity--were brought to a conflagration so great that it took up a large part of the Piazza della Signoria in Florence. There, even Botticelli threw what might have been some of his greatest works onto the "Bonfire of the Vanities". Michelangelo, though seemingly an interested follower did not succumb to this purging extravagance.

Ultimately, Savonarola accused, belittle, condemned and berated too many people and the wrong ones. While evidence of heresy was lacking in Savonarola's preaching and prophecies, nevertheless he and two fellow monks met there own bonfire in the same square on May 23, 1498. Perhaps this was his own "Bonfire of Vanity"--for presuming that he might change the world.

Tom
Sign up for my newsletter

Latin Lives: Finland, the Weather and Wikipedia

You have probably heard or even recited that ditty:

Latin's a dead language,
As dead as dead can be.
First it killed the Romans,
And now it's killing me.

If you did recite it you probably also delighted in your Latin teacher's reluctant laugh and attempt to convince you that Latin is not dead.

Were you convinced?

It seems that Latin, while unlikely to ever be the common language of the world again, is not really dead.

Most people cite the use of it as an official language by the Vatican. But there are plenty who discount that use.

Now however, if you do a search or rather a trawl through the internet you will find that in fact, Latin is thriving.

The biggest boost it has received in the secular realm is the decision by Finland to promulgate its EU Presidency newsletters in Latin. One example is here: Conspectus Rerum Latinus 6/2006. From there you can go back to the main page and find more newsletters.

As if that were not enough, you can also now check the weather in Latin. The entire site is not in Latin but key words having to do with the weather are. Check out the Weather Underground in Latin.

If none of this has convinced you then you may not ever be convinced. But what is a curious thing is how many people remember their lost Latin. And though some of them may have harsh memories of some overly firm nun or too strict a priest form their Latin learning days, almost everyone seems to relish having learned Latin and trying to put it into every day use.

Besides the usual recitation of fields that use Latin (any science field, medicine, law, etc.), fields such as automotives have Latin everywhere (e.g., ignition, transmission, the very word automobile).

Perhaps more indicative of the current living status of Latin, the fast growing Wikipedia is now appearing in Latin. Yes, it is: Vicipaedia.

My point: Latin is a language worth learning. It is worth learning because it is so pervasive. It is not the only language to learn in the world. It is not the oldest or most widespread but it has a formidable history and despite its seeming disappearance has continued to thrive.

Why not learn some? Ask me how.

Tom
Sign up for my newsletter.

Mona Lisa and Her Hidden Garment

It seems that the Mona Lisa has another secret, though perhaps keeping it that way was not intentional.

Scans made using infrared reflectography revealed that
Lisa Gherardini wore a gauzy veil commonly worn by pregnant or post-partem women when she was painted by Leonardo da Vinci.

The veil, called a guarnello, can be seen in Antonio Botticelli's "Portrait of a Lady".

The scans also revealed that Mona Lisa's hair is not completely down but pinned up.

For more on the news, read the Forbes article, "Scan Hints Mona Lisa Pregnant for Pose".

Tom
Sign up for my newsletter.

Chinese Moon Festival and Mooncakes

October marks the Chinese Moon Festival (or Mid-Autumn Festival). On the 15th day of the 8th month (that is, Osmanthumens--named for the osmanthus--or October 6, 2006) the moon is full and round. What better reason to have a celebration?

But more than just an excuse for a party, the round moon has traditionally meant family reunion for the Chinese. The tradition has been so strong in the past that often people have made great journeys to reunite with their families.

A special pastry of sugar, oil, sesame, walnuts, eggs and ham (with some variation throughout communities) is made and eaten on this day.

The moon cakes and their shape seem to have originated to commemorate a Chinese fairy tale. In the story, three characters are important: a fairy called Chang E, a woodcutter called Wu Gana and a jade rabbit, pet of Chang E. The celebrations and the cake were made to pay respectoot Chang E and her dear rabbit.

In 1368, during a period of Mongolian domination, the Chinese decided to rebel. Secreting messages of slaughter into the mooncakes the command made it to all the households. The Chinese were instructed to rise up against their occupiers on the 15th of Osmanthumens.

The production of mooncakes has become big business and some Chinese are complaining. Just like everyone else in the world, though, many Chinese are finding it more convenient to buy a mooncake than to make one.

But many people are trying to return to the tradition and make their own. Consider this recipe from Yan Can Cook, Inc.

Makes 2 dozen
1 can (17-1/2 ounces) lotus seed paste
1/4 cup finely chopped walnuts

Dough
4 cups all-purpose flour
1/2-cup non-fat dried milk powder
3 teaspoons baking powder
1/2 teaspoon salt
3 eggs
1 cup sugar
1/2 cup solid shortening, melted and cooled
1 egg yolk , lightly beaten

1. Mix lotus seed paste and walnuts together in a bowl; set aside.

2. Sift flour, milk powder, baking powder, and salt together into a bowl. In large bowl of electric mixer, beat eggs on medium speed until light and lemon colored. Add sugar; beat for 10 minutes or until mixture falls in a thick ribbon. Add melted shortening; mix lightly. With a spatula, fold in flour mixture. Turn dough out on a lightly floured board; knead for 1 minute or until smooth and satiny. Divide dough in half; roll each half into a log. Cut each log into 12 equal pieces.

3. To shape each moon cake, roll a piece of dough into a ball. Roll out on a lightly floured board to make a 4-inch circle about 1/8-inch thick. Place 1 tablespoon of lotus seed paste mixture in center of dough circle. Fold in sides of dough to completely enclose filling; press edges to seal. Lightly flour inside of moon cake press with 2-1/2 inch diameter cups. Place moon cake, seam side up, in mold; flatten dough to conform to shape of mold. Bang one end of mold lightly on work surface to dislodge moon cake. Place cake on ungreased baking sheet. Repeat to shape remaining cakes. Brush tops with egg yolk.

4. Bake in a preheated 375 degree F. oven for 30 minutes or until golden brown. Transfer to a rack and let cool.

Try it and see if you like it!

To read even more recipes (including different shapes for the cakes, read Yochana's Cake Delight.

Several cities throughout the US are having festival:

San Francisco, September 23-24
Queensland, Australia, October 6
Los Angeles, September 30-October 6
New York (Staten Island Botantical Garden), September 6
For more around the world see: Chiff.com (Moon Festivals)

Tom
Sign up for my newlsetter

Madeleines: Those Tasty French Tarts

It is early morning and you are in a hurry. Quickly downing your first espresso of the morning, you noticed a jar of small, yellow cakes. You peer at the collection and recall (or perhaps you asked out of curiosity), “What are those?"

“Madeleines,” you are told.

“That’s nice,” you think and then on a whim decide to try one. It has a light texture and a hint of lemon. In less than a minute you have consumed it all and wonder about a second one.

These delightful French cakes are called Madeleines. Madeleine being the French form of Magdalene. Did Mary Magdalene make these?

Probably not, but it would make a good story to think that the repentant Magdalene decided to bake a sweet cake for the Lord’s company. Perhaps a reminder of honey cakes made for sacrifices to gods of the ancient world. Perhaps Caravaggio even had her holding one in his Penitent Magdalene before it reached its known form.

Nice story it would be. However, the real story, just as interesting and far more believable begins not so very long ago in France. Madeleines hit literary fame because Marcel Proust mentions them in his À la recherche du temps perdu (Remembrance of Things Past) published in 1923.

In a short passage he describes the cake, how he ate it and, very telling for Proust, how it produced a sensual response. You probably didn’t do it, but Proust dipped his Madeleine in his coffee (you might want to try it—but not too long lest the cake fall to the bottom). He calls the cakes petites madeleines which suggests that perhaps there was a larger version already in existence. Read an excerpt.

But whether there was or whether the appellation was just a sweet comment on their size, we still have to discover their origin.

Two theories hold competing prominence, though I would prefer the second.

One says that a young girl, Madeleine (of course!) who lived in the small village of Commercy, in the Lorraine region of France, had an occasion to meet the lately toppled king of Poland, Stanislas Leszczynski who had been exiled to Lorraine (and who was otherwise famous as the father of Marie Leszczynska, the wife of Louis XV). For some unknown reason (who needs a reason to bake a sweet cake for a friend or acquaintance?), she baked him this sweet treat. Perhaps she only had a small tart pan at hand or she wanted to tease him with just a small taste at a time. In any case, the king, enamored of the cake and the baker, called them affectionately, ‘madeleines’

The other explanation and the one that seems to have some stronger claim to the truth is that the cakes were baked and sold by nuns who might have lived in a long abandoned convent dedicated to Mary Magdalene, having adopted the recipe from an early tradition among the boulangeries of Commercy.

This story would fit with other names of monasteries being associated with their respective products, most notably perhaps Benedictine as a type of brandy produced by Benedictine monks of Fécamp. In other words, as the monks’ brandy might have been first called in French la liqueur bénédictine then shortened to (la) bénédictine, so too the cakes may have started as something like gâteux de Madeleine, then shorted to Madeleine.

Less certain (if we can be any less certain) is why they have a compressed scallop shape. There seems to be no other explanation but that the nuns or dear little Madeleine used a sort of tart pan to make the cakes quickly and easily. Or perhaps the nuns of Commercy were simply good marketers. Make a few small cakes to sell quickly and avoid waste. The little cake caught on as a quick treat, easily cupped in the hand and popped into the mouth.

Madeleines are delightful and whether tasted in a local coffee shop (dipped or not) or on a French avenue are sure to invite discussion of nuns, Polish kings and repentant prostitutes. Or maybe not.

For a recipe, check out: Recipe Zaar. For some other interesting unusual histories of food, read Patricia Stevens', Rare Bits: Unusual Origins of Popular Recipes.



Tom
Sign up for my newsletter.

No Bones About It: Aztecs Ate Spanish Captives

Research confirms that Aztecs sacrificed their Spanish enemies, including children, and ate them.

The remains of some 550 people were found at the site of Zultapec. The victims were imprisoned in small cages. The sacrifices took place over days and, no doubt, those alive heard the noises of sacrifice.

The Conquistador Cortéz renamed the place Tecuaque when he heard of the sacrifices. He then sent troops to destroy it.

Anticipating the attack, the Aztecs attempted to remove evidence of the victims by throwing their belongings down wells. Unknown to them, they saved important artifacts for future study.

For a complete story, read Reuters UK: "Boiled bones show Aztecs butchered, ate invaders".

Tom

A Paris Gem: Saint-Pierre de Montmartre

Every once in a while you find some really great gem in a city that is one of the most visited places on earth.

While I was wandering Paris, taking pictures, I decided I would go up to Montmartre and Sacré Coeur. That church is interesting in its own right, but it is very crowded and to be quite honest, not half as interesting as another church that it dwarfs.

Just to the left of Sacré Coeur (as you see look at it from the front) is the little church of Saint-Pierre de Montmartre. This gem of a find is the third oldest church in Paris behind Notre Dame and Saint-Germain de Prés. But, while the megathrongs of tourists were wondering (a bit blindly) through Sacré Coeur, barely a sole bothered to stop by this intriguing though worn down church teeming with history.

Built over the top of a Roman temple to Mars, the church was constructed by Benedictine nuns who received the appointment from King Louis VI (le Gros) and Queen Alix of Savoy. In 1147, it was consecrated by Pope Eugenius III who was in town to celebrate Easter mass with the likes of Bernard of Clairvaux and Peter the Venerable of Cluny.

The church has several claims to fame. Queen Alix was buried there, though her tomb was destroyed during the French Revolution. St. Ignatius Loyola, St. Francis Xavier and Peter Fabre, pronounced their vows here, creating the Society of Jesus (Jesuits). And the location is near where St. Denis (Dionysius) was said to have lost his head at the command of a Roman governor (and from whence he carried his head down the hill to the site of the present-day Church of St. Denis).

The church is beautiful. Do yourself a favor and avoid the crowds at Sacré Coeur. Do yourself a favor and enjoy a small gem in Paris!

Saint-Pierre de Montmartre
2, Rue du Mont-Cenis (Place du Tertre)
75018 Paris
Métro: Anvers, Abbesses
Funiculaire: Place Suzanne Valadon
No website


Tom

Victor Hugo's House in Paris

In my earlier post (Paris and Sewers), I said that I was going to visit the Musée du Quai Branly. The line was once again exceedingly long, so I continued on my way. In that same post I mentioned Victor Hugo so I decided to visit the museum in one of his houses.

La Maison de Victor Hugo, L'Hôtel de Rohan-Guéménée, located in the Place des Vosges (formerly Place Royal). The house is a charming 3-4 story. The ground floor has a small shop and a video presentation. The first floor shows drawings by Victor Hugo and illustrations by various artists inspired by his works.

The second floor shows the arrangement of the house proper, including a living room in Chinese style, a dining room in medievalstyle and the room in which he died.

Admission is free. It is well-worth a visit and can be a quick stop on your itinerary.

A couple of his works you might consider:




Les Misérables
Notre-Dame de Paris




Maison de Victor Hugo
6, Place des Vosges
75004 Paris
1 42 10 16
Website
Closed Mondays
Free Admission

The other house maintained as a museum is on Guernsey:

38 Hauteville
Saint-Peter-Port
Guernsey
Channel Islands
1 481 721 911

Closed Sundays
Guided tours only

More good food in Paris

Spending lots of time in Paris means that you do not always eat French food. In fact, there are plenty of other good food places to be found.

Tonight I went out on a limb.

I was hungry for Pho Bac; it was raining (after some very hot days) and I was starving! While waiting for my laundry, I noticed a Vietnamese restaurant called Minh Ðuc. I had seen it before but never really thought much about it.

The place is a bit nondescript. Windows from the main street side are covered with bamboo shades. The sign seems a bit worn with age, red letters fading with each sunny day. The main door, too, is deceiving: it is not the actual 'main' door.

The tables are nicely laid and the atmosphere is typically Vietnamese: red napkins, music playing and a Buddha shrine in the corner. But the place was empty.

I was greeted warmly by a man who spoke little English (this, in the heart of the Sorbonne--a major tourist area--is a big plus on my list!). I told him I wanted Pho. He understood immediately.

I was presented with prawn crackers (the best I have ever had; usually they are way too 'fishy') and my wine.

I was impressed with the Pho. It was served in a smaller size bowl than usual in the US (and, really, about the right amount). The broth was savory but not dramatic. That left room for the full-flavor taste of the beef--not shreds of beef as in the US, but tender chunks. I always add chili paste and that only complemented the flavor of the broth. Bean sprouts and mint leaves on the side rounded out the experience.

No one else was there, so it was hard to get a feel for the atmosphere. I suspect that the location is not serving it well, but I certainly intend to try some of the other dishes. (And to those who have passed it by, I say, "You don't know what you are missing!")

Minh Ðuc
8, Rue de la Montagne Sainte Geneviève
75005 Paris
01 46 33 31 96
Métro: Maubert-Mutualité

(The address listed is the address the restaurant gives, though if you search for it, the address 1, Rue Basse des Carmes will show up: that is the real 'main' entrance, located on a small square.)

No credit cards; no website.

Tom

St. Petersburg: Hermitage Museum suffers theft

A sad day in the art world. Thieves have stolen some 200 items from the famous Hermitage Museum in St. Petersburg. The museum has one of the best collections in the world including Greek and Roman items, works by da Vinci, Raphael, Titian, Rembrandt, Holbein, Mengs, Michelangelo, Mazzuoli and much, much more.

Read more: Hermitage hit by mystery thieves (from BBC News).

If you have a chance to go to St. Petersburg, the Hermitage is a must. Visit the museum's website: Hermitage Museum. The website is extensive with highlights, exhibition information and a virtual museum.

Tom

Finding Caravaggio

It has recently been a thrill for me to discover three Caravaggio paintings in Rome. I have been to Rome many, many times, and I have a person goal to see all the Caravaggios that exist. But for all these years, I had not yet seen three paintings on the life of St. Matthew.

Checking my list I noticed that The Calling of St. Matthew, The Angel and St. Matthew and The Martyrdom of St. Matthew were all located in the church of San Luigi dei Francesi (St. Louis of the French). I made a mental note to look for that church sometime this summer.

After my tours ended, I thought I would wander a little to see what I could see. A friend was visiting and we went to the L'Officina Profumo Farmaceutica di Santa Maria Novella. An interesting place all its own (especially the 'mother house' in Florence).

As we were walking away from the Piazza Navona I saw a sign for the Piazza de San Luigi dei Francesi. My brain skipped a few beats as I tried to discern why this seemed significant. I then pulled out my (yes, old-fashioned) note paper and scanned my list of Caravaggios--there it was a listing of three in the church that was located on this piazza.

I walked into the church and as I slowly made my way toward the small side chapel where the painting were located, my excitement grew, anticipating this viewing. Several other great paintings passed, but as soon as I saw the play of light and dark, and the dark punctuated with color, I knew I had reached the spot. I felt myself on the verge of weeping with joy at seeing such beauty. My companion listened patiently as I described each painting and the history behind the paintings.

In a previous post (Caravaggio in a new light), I mentioned the digital Caravaggio exhibit at the Loyola University Museum of Art in Chicago. This is a great way to see the paintings if you cannot get to see the real thing!

National Gallery, London: Cézanne and Velázquez

If your travels this fall take you to London, you will want to visit the National Gallery. And if you have been there before, this is a good time to re-visit the location.

Cézanne (Cézanne in Britain) and Velázquez (first such extensive exhibit in Britain) are special exhibit.

Tom

Celebrating Picasso's 125th Birthday

In honor of Picasso's 125th birthday this year, Museo del Prado in Madrid is showing of the master's work. It is an appropriate place for this exhibit: it not only honors Picasso's work but also his museum directorship, 1936-1939.

The Museo de la Reina Sofía is also the place to see Picasso in Spain.

For general information on Picasso and the exhibits the joint museum site.

Tom

Musée de l'Orangerie: Monet, Renoir, Picasso, Cézanne, Gauguin, Modigliani and more!

After six years of redesign and renovation, the Musée de l'Orangerie in the Jardin des Tuileries, Paris, has reopened. It is a stunning location and a mesmerizing presentation of some of the world's greatest artists.

On the museum, read this New York Times article.

The ground level seems very simple and, at first, not worth the wait (better if you have a reservation--see the museum's website--but it's not too long of a wait if you go late in the day) and being troubled by a security screening. Once you enter the first gallery presenting Monet's Water Lilies or "Nymphéas" ('large format'--they take up nearly entire walls) you realize that it is the perfect setting. Despite the buzz of people admiring the scene, you feel almost transported to a pleasant afternoon along the River Giverny.

And as if on that river bank, you could sense people of all sorts taken by the scene: from the grandfather teaching his granddaughter about art to the young man expressing his sheer amazement of the work to his disinterested girlfriend.

Moving to the lower floor, there is no disappointment. Gauguin, Picasso, Cézanne and many more confront you as you leisurely stroll through the Jean Walter and Paul Guillaume collections.

Crepes and food in Paris

It seems that the price of food-everything from crepes to prix fixe-has risen as steadily as the temperatures this summer.

Crêpes are disappointing: it is hard to find anyone who is making the crêpe fresh. Watch out for those pre-made ones stored in open stacks. No telling how long they have been there; when re-heated they are less than tasty. Besides, some crêperies are folding the crêpe before filling and that just won't do. Not to mention that in the course of a year, the on-street price has risen from about €2 to as high as €7.

Food prices in restaurants have risen dramatically too. And with the rise in price has come a decrease in quantity and (yes, this is possible) a decrease in service.

However, I must mention two restaurants that rate high on my list for value, quality and service.

The first is Les Trois Marmites. A tiny restaurant of only bout 35 seats, tucked away in the 20th arrondissement. The price has risen, but still below most prix fixe places (it is now €19). The food is outstanding. Everytime I take friends there they are somewhat dubious because it is out-of-the-way, but when they take their first bite, they are completely impressed. The flavors just explode in your mouth.

The menu changes regularly so it is hard to say what to have, but there are ample choices for 1st and 2nd plates as well as desserts. They also have a good wine list. Only caution: very warm inside during the summer and no outside seating. Be sure to make a reservation! No website; address: 8, Rue Julien Lacroix, 75020 Paris (Métro: Ménilmontant). Phone: 01 40 33 05 65. Hours: 8pm-2am; closed Monday. (Map)

The other location is La Maison de Verlaine. Situated in the house where the poet Paul Verlaine died from alcoholism and perhaps toxicity due to absinthe, the place is small and interesting. Food is good quality French, with some of the best Onion Soup I have ever had. It is now owned by a Greek family, so do not be surprised to find taramasalata on the menu! Located near the Sorbonne in the 5th arrondissement, friends don't moan about the distance, and are impressed by the taste. Wine list is good and the house wine is nice.

They offer several prix fixes some without wine and some with (from €12 to €24). Temperatures are warm inside during the summer but tolerable; worth the wait for an outside seat. Ask for Spiros. No website; address: 39, Rue Descartes, 75005 Paris (M&eaute;tro: Cardinal Lemoine). Phone: 01 43 26 39 15. (Map)

Tom

Where to Go for Gelato in Rome?

Wondering around Rome is a sure way to get very hot. And there is nothing more refreshing than a scoop or two of gelato. Like many things, gelato has origins full of romance, legend and downright mythology. And like other things, gelato can be really good or it can be really bad.

In Rome there are so many gelato shops that it can be hard to decide which is best. And it can also be a challenge to get back to the one you already know you like. Do you really want to ride the metro all the way back to Piazza di Spagna when you are at St. Paul's Outside the Wall?

Here are some suggestions for gelato shops near monuments and important sites.

If you find yourself at the Trevi Fountain dying for gelato, do yourself a favor a walk a little away from the fountain. San Crispino has been making a name for itself for some time, and has been ranked best by New York Times. Facing the fountain, turn to your right and head up Via del Lavatore. Just a minute or so up the road you will see Via della Panetteria (map) on your left. Turn left and watch for the shop at number 42 on the right. They are open late to accommodate those who are catching a view of the fountain at night.

Another site that has its fair share of gelato shops and can be very confusing is the Piazza Navona. Probably the best gelato (especially the specialty tartufo, invented here, a chocolate gelato truffle) is to be found at Tre Scalini. Standing at the Fountain of the Four Rivers, stand by the figure that seems to be shrieking in horror, looking at St. Agnes Church. Then look to your right along the buildings and find the first street. Just to the right, look for number 30 (map).

A lesser visited spot, the Piazza Vittorio Emanuele II yields a gelato gem. Try the gelateria Il Palazzo del Freddo di Giovanni Fassi. Besides great tasting gelato, you can also see some of the history of gelato making. Standing near the Giardini Piazza Vittorio, look for Via Princepe Eugenio and head to number 65-67 (map).

The Pantheon is a great location for a visit or just to take in the splendor of the sphere inside the church. But one place, the gelateria Giolitti offers more than the usual cup or cone of gelato. Instead you can get their special, 'copa Giolitti' and truly satisfy your gelato craving (you might want to relax a bit afterwards before walking on in the heat!). From in front of the Pantheon facing that great American restaurant with the big gold M, walk to your left down Via della Rosetta; continue on through Piazza Maddelena onto Via Maddelena. At the end of that road make a right and walk straight on until you run into Via degli Uffici del Vicario, just after Via Campo Marzio on your right. Watch for number 40 (map).

Any shopper knows that the Campo de' Fiori offers tons of bargains. But it also can be hot and exhausting. When you have picked through the market's offerings, take a well-deserved rest at Alberto Pica. It is a little bit of a walk, but head back toward the Monumento a Vittorio Emanuele II along Via dei Giubbonari. When you run into the wide Via Arenula, turn right (toward the river) then watch for Via della Seggiola on your right (about 5 minutes) turn into the street and look for number 12 (map).

Keep an eye out for more suggestions.

Enjoy!

Tom

Espresso redux

In a previous post (Gelato, Espresso and Water) I was bemoaning the rising cost of three staples of an Italian visit (and I dare say, life).

It is always a pleasant surprise when I find a high quality, highly recommended location that contradicts the ordinary.

Such is the case with the Café de Paris on Rome's Via Veneto.

The café found fame with Fellini's La Dolce Vita and has inspired celebrities and ordinary people ever since. Outside its walls you can find stills from the filming of Fellini's look at a young Roman's search for the elusive 'sweet' life that is nothing more than ephemeral. (See a summary of the movie at The Fellini Files.)

But inside the café is where the real suprise awaited me. I was asked by some friends to hunt down the location and to have an espresso. As has become somewhat usual, I was expressing doubt about finding a reasonably priced espresso in Rome, especially at such a place as this.

We arrived and were greeted warmly by the staff. After paying at the typical cash-desk before ordering, I was stunned that a single espresso was only 1 euro 60.

I was actually floored!

This is still not the 1000 lire of the past, but it is a far cry from the 5, 6, 7 euros I have seen elsewhere such as the Piazza Navona in Rome or the Piazza della Repubblica in Florence.

Kudos to you Café de Paris!

If you are in Rome or soon will be, you can taste the joy of the low price and the good espresso (remember this was a bar price) at Via Veneto, 90 (Metro: Barberini).

Tom

Where Do Heroes Go When They Die?

This entry could be an essay on the fading idea of a hero.

It could be a diatribe on the lack of 'true' heroes.

It could even be a discussion of the characteristics of heroes, asking perhaps, "Is a basketball player the same kind of hero as is Achilles?"

But this entry is none of these. Instead what this blog concerns is how we nearly everyday encounter things from the past yet are so completely unaware of them.

In archaic Greece there was no sense of heaven and hell. The gods lived in various locations, most notably, Mt. Olympus; humans lived on earth. Mt. Olympus was not 'heaven' and humans did not go there.

When humans died, regardless of good or bad, they went to Hades or Tartarus. It was the underworld but not 'hell', just a place not on earth where mortals dwelled after death.

But in the human psyche, particularly for ancient Greeks, it seemed self-evident that some humans--heroes--deserve a little more than, let's say, economy class after-life accommodations.

It is with mentioning that heroes were always 'good'. Heracles killed his children, Achilles sulked in his tent and let his beloved Patroclus go to his death. The key element of their being heroes was not always being good or the best. Rather they faced adversity and made choices. Though those choices may not have been the best, and though they may have led to disaster, the hero never shrunk from responsibility. Instead he learned from the adversity and the consequences of his choices. In a way, he 'lived' through the obstacles. That is key: no going around the bumps in the road of life. Instead, an almost single-minded determinism to drive right through the obstacle.

Such people, the Ancient Greeks thought, deserved more. So instead of in Hades with the rest of us, the heroes were afforded a happy after-death in the Elysian Fields.

I wonder what the heroes might think of what has become of their Elysian Fields.
In a complete turn of fate the Elysian fields are immortalized in a very real, but very different, place. And it is a very modern place, filled with high-end shops, trendy fashion designers and the latest in haute couture.

That place is the Avenue des Champs-Elysées in Paris. The avenue leads from the Arc de Triumph to the of Palace du Louvre.

So next time you are strolling the Elysées, consider what the heroes might be thinking. Or imagine yourself as one, and this is your after-life!

Tom

Gelato, Espresso and Water

Beware the rising prices of these fine and simple things of life in the Eternal City. Since the introduction of the Euro, prices in Rome have generally been soaring, but the price of these three staples are simply outrageous.

That is, at least, if you buy them in the tourist areas. A simple bottle of refreshing water at 26 eurocents in the grocery store can cost upwards of 3 euros by the Colosseum.

Gelato and espresso have gotten out of hand too. In the last year, I have seen the price of a 'piccola' rise from 1 Euro 50 to 3 Euros in some places. And every taxi driver can tell you that the price of espresso is a scam.

Starting with the falsehood that an espresso at 1000 lire would be more or less the same at 1 Euro, the boiling point of Italian and tourist blood is being pushed up further and further. Simple math will tell you that the prices are not the same. And now, that same cup of espresso is reaching toward 3 Euros!

I guess that the saying 'una vita non basta' should maybe be 'un euro non basta'.

Tom

Nero's Golden House & Grotesque Art Style

Greetings from Rome!

You may have found this blog quiet for a while but that doesn't mean there has been a lack of interesting things. I have just finished a tour of Spain with 13 people. It was a great tour and now I am getting ready to start the first Rome tour of the summer.

In the past few years, one of the exciting sites to open was the Domus Aurea or the Golden House of Nero. The house smacked of opulence and gave rise to the artistic style we have come to call grotesque.

Unfortunately, fall flooding caused the closing of the Domus until further notice. Those who were looking forward to seeing the magnificient construction, partially covered over by later emperors, will be a little disappointed. But the way things have been going in Rome, the Domus will re-open and we will once again be able to see the house that Nero built. Information on the site can be found on the Superintendent of Archaeology of Rome site (English is available, but was not working as of this posting).

The grotesque style of art, characterized by human and animal forms, often with seemingly unrealistic attitudes, along with free use of surrealistic foliage, arose from the first discovery of the Domus Aurea. In the 16th century, the likes of Michelangelo skinnied through a hole dug into what everyone thought was a cave or underground grotto. What they discovered were the magnificiently painted ceilings of the Domus Aurea.

Slowly artists began to incorporate this type of artistic decoration into their own work giving rise to the grotesque or grotto-like art. Only later, due to the over use and sometimes seemingly extravagant styling does the word come to mean our sense of disgusting.

Read about the grotesque style on the Giornale Nuovo blog.

Una vita non basta!

Tom

Ara Pacis in Rome re-opens

After several years of being closed to the public, the great altar of peace (ara pacis) built by Emperor Augustus in 9AD has be reopened.

American architect, Richard Meier was commissioned to design a new building to protect the important artifact. His design replaces the 1938 Fascist building.

As with many new things built to protect old things, there are fans and there are critics. Read a little about the new building on CBC: "Controversial Redesign Shows off Ancient Ara Pacis".

The altar was erected in 9 AD to celebrate Augustus' successes and to mark a period of peace (the pax romana). The reopening occurred on Saturday, April 21, the traditional founding date of Rome in 753BC.

Tom
Sign up for my newsletter.

Italian Wine History--an alternative?

Two Italian winemakers claim that the tradition of wine making in Italy comes from the Celts. They are so certain of this that they have established a 'Celtic farm' for vinting in the Celtic way. They intend to use profits from the sale of their wine to create a Celtic Cultural center. Read the Reuters story.

Tom

Shakespeare year-long festival and Happy Birthday

The Royal Shakespeare Company has announced a grand festival of the master playwrights works: one year full of great entertainment and delight. All this will take place in Stratford-upon-Avon, the birthplace of Shakespeare and theater companies from around the world will be taking their turn on the boards.

Moreover, some plays will be performed in other languages than English (or at least parts of them will be in other languages). Several venues have been booked for the performances.

BBC News has a full article on the plan. The Royal Shakespeare Company homepage has complete information including accommodations and timetables. The festival begins this April and runs through April 2007, in commemoration of Shakespeare's traditional birth date, April 23 1564. So, to end this--Happy Birthday, William!

Tom

6500 Year Old Gold Pendant in Thessaloniki

What an experience this must have been. A hiker from Greece was traipsing through a field near Ptolemaida, Greece and came across a shiny gold object.

It turns out that the object is a 6500 year old pendant. Not only that, it is one of only three such artifacts ever found! Read the article here.

Ptolemaida is about 90 miles from Thessaloniki in the ancient homeland of Alexander the Great.

Tom

Pyramid in Bosnia?

There is quite a stir among popular and scholarly circles with the news that a step pyramid has been discovered in Bosnia.

MSNBC.com reports that Semir Osmanagić, a Bosnian archaeologist, has confirmed the presence of walls of the pyramids. A second MSNBC.com article also discusses the find.

For a discussion of the find and a great picture that clearly shows a pyramid shaped hill, see the blog Unjournaled: Pyramid found - in the heart of Bosnia.

This is an exciting find and worth the continued work on discovering the nature of the pyramid and perhaps finding clues about the people who constructed. Some think that it may have been built by 'pre-Illyrians' or Illyrians who existed before 600AD. Illyria was also under Roman control, but no mention of pyramid building in Europe is made by them.

For a video clip, see Politiken in Dutch).

Tom
Sign up for my newsletter.

Roman Empire City Building

You may have heard of SimCity and various titles with the 'Sims'.

Now another company, CDV Entertainment and Enlight Software have teamed up to bring a city building game set in the Roman Empire called The Glory of The Roman Empire.

News is just coming out and the game has not been release.

Have a look at the