Best Tartines in Paris and Other Culinary Travel Delights

The Best Tartines in Paris ~ Bon Appétit Editor's Blog at Epicurious.com

Ever on the lookout for new culinary experiences and gastronomique delights, these tartines, or open-faced sandwiches, are a special treat to enjoy the next time you travel to Paris, France.

Here are some other culinary discussions to assist in planning your next culinary travel itinerary!

Chocolate & Zucchini Blog - Clotilde Dusoulier
Chocolate & Zucchini is a blog written by Clotilde Dusoulier, a Parisian woman who lives in Montmartre and shares her passion for all things food-related -- thoughts, recipes, musings, cookbook acquisitions, quirky products, nifty tools, restaurant experiences, ideas, and inspirations.

Ms. Dusoulier's new book, Edible Adventures in Paris, is available on Amazon.com

Living the Sweet Life in Paris - David Lebovitz

David received much of his training at Alice Waters' world-famous restaurant Chez Panisse in Berkeley, California. He spent over twelve years in the pastry department. David was named one of the "Top Five Pastry Chefs in the Bay Area" by the San Francisco Chronicle, and he's received critical acclaim in such publications as Bon Appétit, Chocolatier, Cooking Light, Food and Wine, Gourmet, Condé Nast Traveler, Cook's Illustrated, Newsweek, the New York Times, People, Saveur, Sunset and USA Today. David has appeared on both local and national television programs on PBS, the Discovery Channel and NBC's Today Show.

His culinary education includes learning the art of chocolate at Callebaut College in Belgium and advanced coursework in baking and the art of confectionery at the renowned Ecole Lenôtre in Paris.

David's books can be found on Amazon.com

A Foodie in Paris
Written by a Parisian woman obsessed with good food and hidden treasures in Paris, this is an excellent resource for a French culinary travel planning.

Orangette by Molly Wizenberg
Molly is an award-winning blogger, featuring the food and lore of her travels.

Chinese Moon Festival and Mooncakes

October marks the Chinese Moon Festival (or Mid-Autumn Festival). On the 15th day of the 8th month (that is, Osmanthumens--named for the osmanthus--or October 6, 2006) the moon is full and round. What better reason to have a celebration?

But more than just an excuse for a party, the round moon has traditionally meant family reunion for the Chinese. The tradition has been so strong in the past that often people have made great journeys to reunite with their families.

A special pastry of sugar, oil, sesame, walnuts, eggs and ham (with some variation throughout communities) is made and eaten on this day.

The moon cakes and their shape seem to have originated to commemorate a Chinese fairy tale. In the story, three characters are important: a fairy called Chang E, a woodcutter called Wu Gana and a jade rabbit, pet of Chang E. The celebrations and the cake were made to pay respectoot Chang E and her dear rabbit.

In 1368, during a period of Mongolian domination, the Chinese decided to rebel. Secreting messages of slaughter into the mooncakes the command made it to all the households. The Chinese were instructed to rise up against their occupiers on the 15th of Osmanthumens.

The production of mooncakes has become big business and some Chinese are complaining. Just like everyone else in the world, though, many Chinese are finding it more convenient to buy a mooncake than to make one.

But many people are trying to return to the tradition and make their own. Consider this recipe from Yan Can Cook, Inc.

Makes 2 dozen
1 can (17-1/2 ounces) lotus seed paste
1/4 cup finely chopped walnuts

Dough
4 cups all-purpose flour
1/2-cup non-fat dried milk powder
3 teaspoons baking powder
1/2 teaspoon salt
3 eggs
1 cup sugar
1/2 cup solid shortening, melted and cooled
1 egg yolk , lightly beaten

1. Mix lotus seed paste and walnuts together in a bowl; set aside.

2. Sift flour, milk powder, baking powder, and salt together into a bowl. In large bowl of electric mixer, beat eggs on medium speed until light and lemon colored. Add sugar; beat for 10 minutes or until mixture falls in a thick ribbon. Add melted shortening; mix lightly. With a spatula, fold in flour mixture. Turn dough out on a lightly floured board; knead for 1 minute or until smooth and satiny. Divide dough in half; roll each half into a log. Cut each log into 12 equal pieces.

3. To shape each moon cake, roll a piece of dough into a ball. Roll out on a lightly floured board to make a 4-inch circle about 1/8-inch thick. Place 1 tablespoon of lotus seed paste mixture in center of dough circle. Fold in sides of dough to completely enclose filling; press edges to seal. Lightly flour inside of moon cake press with 2-1/2 inch diameter cups. Place moon cake, seam side up, in mold; flatten dough to conform to shape of mold. Bang one end of mold lightly on work surface to dislodge moon cake. Place cake on ungreased baking sheet. Repeat to shape remaining cakes. Brush tops with egg yolk.

4. Bake in a preheated 375 degree F. oven for 30 minutes or until golden brown. Transfer to a rack and let cool.

Try it and see if you like it!

To read even more recipes (including different shapes for the cakes, read Yochana's Cake Delight.

Several cities throughout the US are having festival:

San Francisco, September 23-24
Queensland, Australia, October 6
Los Angeles, September 30-October 6
New York (Staten Island Botantical Garden), September 6
For more around the world see: Chiff.com (Moon Festivals)

Tom
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Madeleines: Those Tasty French Tarts

It is early morning and you are in a hurry. Quickly downing your first espresso of the morning, you noticed a jar of small, yellow cakes. You peer at the collection and recall (or perhaps you asked out of curiosity), “What are those?"

“Madeleines,” you are told.

“That’s nice,” you think and then on a whim decide to try one. It has a light texture and a hint of lemon. In less than a minute you have consumed it all and wonder about a second one.

These delightful French cakes are called Madeleines. Madeleine being the French form of Magdalene. Did Mary Magdalene make these?

Probably not, but it would make a good story to think that the repentant Magdalene decided to bake a sweet cake for the Lord’s company. Perhaps a reminder of honey cakes made for sacrifices to gods of the ancient world. Perhaps Caravaggio even had her holding one in his Penitent Magdalene before it reached its known form.

Nice story it would be. However, the real story, just as interesting and far more believable begins not so very long ago in France. Madeleines hit literary fame because Marcel Proust mentions them in his À la recherche du temps perdu (Remembrance of Things Past) published in 1923.

In a short passage he describes the cake, how he ate it and, very telling for Proust, how it produced a sensual response. You probably didn’t do it, but Proust dipped his Madeleine in his coffee (you might want to try it—but not too long lest the cake fall to the bottom). He calls the cakes petites madeleines which suggests that perhaps there was a larger version already in existence. Read an excerpt.

But whether there was or whether the appellation was just a sweet comment on their size, we still have to discover their origin.

Two theories hold competing prominence, though I would prefer the second.

One says that a young girl, Madeleine (of course!) who lived in the small village of Commercy, in the Lorraine region of France, had an occasion to meet the lately toppled king of Poland, Stanislas Leszczynski who had been exiled to Lorraine (and who was otherwise famous as the father of Marie Leszczynska, the wife of Louis XV). For some unknown reason (who needs a reason to bake a sweet cake for a friend or acquaintance?), she baked him this sweet treat. Perhaps she only had a small tart pan at hand or she wanted to tease him with just a small taste at a time. In any case, the king, enamored of the cake and the baker, called them affectionately, ‘madeleines’

The other explanation and the one that seems to have some stronger claim to the truth is that the cakes were baked and sold by nuns who might have lived in a long abandoned convent dedicated to Mary Magdalene, having adopted the recipe from an early tradition among the boulangeries of Commercy.

This story would fit with other names of monasteries being associated with their respective products, most notably perhaps Benedictine as a type of brandy produced by Benedictine monks of Fécamp. In other words, as the monks’ brandy might have been first called in French la liqueur bénédictine then shortened to (la) bénédictine, so too the cakes may have started as something like gâteux de Madeleine, then shorted to Madeleine.

Less certain (if we can be any less certain) is why they have a compressed scallop shape. There seems to be no other explanation but that the nuns or dear little Madeleine used a sort of tart pan to make the cakes quickly and easily. Or perhaps the nuns of Commercy were simply good marketers. Make a few small cakes to sell quickly and avoid waste. The little cake caught on as a quick treat, easily cupped in the hand and popped into the mouth.

Madeleines are delightful and whether tasted in a local coffee shop (dipped or not) or on a French avenue are sure to invite discussion of nuns, Polish kings and repentant prostitutes. Or maybe not.

For a recipe, check out: Recipe Zaar. For some other interesting unusual histories of food, read Patricia Stevens', Rare Bits: Unusual Origins of Popular Recipes.



Tom
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Gnocchi di Susine: Chef Mario Batali adds his recipe

Some time ago, I wrote about one of my favorite northern Italian dishes, Gnocchi di Susine.

I recently noticed that the Food Network chef, Mario Batali, has provided his version of this treat on an episode (Nonna Triestina) of his show, Molto Mario.

You can download his recipe from the Food Network site but you need to be registered (I am!).

Tom
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Bad restaurant in Paris

Sometimes you just have to say it like it is.

Le Palais de la Griserie is not a very good Chinese and Thai food restaurant in Paris.

The lady who greeted me and took my order was nice enough. But the waiter who served me was so put upon to even open the wine that my entire dinner was spoiled.

My hot and sour soup (Soupe pekingnese) was marginal. The spicy chicken (poulet a l'imperial) was all right. The prawn crackers were actually good. The Bordeaux was too cold and the water arrived late.

To top it all off, the bill was overcharged for a boisson (drink) and then the waiter failed to bring me my change!

Restaurant "Le Palais de la Griserie"
13, Rue Lagrange
75005 Paris
01 43 54 46 75
Métro: Maubert-Mutualité
No website

Tom

Indian Food in Paris

Wandering the streets in search of good food of any sort in a place like Paris can be rather daunting. Fortunately, my good friend Jean Demélier (a writer and artist--see Artists and Writers: Jean Demélier) was my guide for finding some scrumptious and inexpensive food.

Three different times we visited the Thensurabi restaurant for Indian cuisine. The restaurant, located near the Gare du Nord is small, warm in the summer and heavily trafficked by local Indians. The food is well-priced for the quantity and the flavor has been consistently good.

If you are staying near the Gare du Nord or are willing to go out of the city center, the Thensurabi is worth a visit. Do not expect anything fancy, just good food and friendly service.

The house Bordeaux and Rosé are pleasant. They do offer an Indian red, but it is much higher priced ano particularlyyay palatable.

For a three course meal consisting of Tandoori Chicken, Vadai (a falafel-like creation with vegetables) and Curry rice with Chicken, my meal was only €9. The small bottle of wine, shared cost me only €3. The portions were good-sized but not overwhelming. Such prices are hard to find in the Paris city center.

Do choose a seat outside if available. Inside is quite warm, especially in the summer heat. Also do be aware that street noise can be extensive.

Thensurabi
60 Louis Blanc
75010 Paris
01 40 34 42 54
Métro: La Chapelle or Gare du Nord (also RER)
No website

Tom

More good food in Paris

Spending lots of time in Paris means that you do not always eat French food. In fact, there are plenty of other good food places to be found.

Tonight I went out on a limb.

I was hungry for Pho Bac; it was raining (after some very hot days) and I was starving! While waiting for my laundry, I noticed a Vietnamese restaurant called Minh Ðuc. I had seen it before but never really thought much about it.

The place is a bit nondescript. Windows from the main street side are covered with bamboo shades. The sign seems a bit worn with age, red letters fading with each sunny day. The main door, too, is deceiving: it is not the actual 'main' door.

The tables are nicely laid and the atmosphere is typically Vietnamese: red napkins, music playing and a Buddha shrine in the corner. But the place was empty.

I was greeted warmly by a man who spoke little English (this, in the heart of the Sorbonne--a major tourist area--is a big plus on my list!). I told him I wanted Pho. He understood immediately.

I was presented with prawn crackers (the best I have ever had; usually they are way too 'fishy') and my wine.

I was impressed with the Pho. It was served in a smaller size bowl than usual in the US (and, really, about the right amount). The broth was savory but not dramatic. That left room for the full-flavor taste of the beef--not shreds of beef as in the US, but tender chunks. I always add chili paste and that only complemented the flavor of the broth. Bean sprouts and mint leaves on the side rounded out the experience.

No one else was there, so it was hard to get a feel for the atmosphere. I suspect that the location is not serving it well, but I certainly intend to try some of the other dishes. (And to those who have passed it by, I say, "You don't know what you are missing!")

Minh Ðuc
8, Rue de la Montagne Sainte Geneviève
75005 Paris
01 46 33 31 96
Métro: Maubert-Mutualité

(The address listed is the address the restaurant gives, though if you search for it, the address 1, Rue Basse des Carmes will show up: that is the real 'main' entrance, located on a small square.)

No credit cards; no website.

Tom

Crepes and food in Paris

It seems that the price of food-everything from crepes to prix fixe-has risen as steadily as the temperatures this summer.

Crêpes are disappointing: it is hard to find anyone who is making the crêpe fresh. Watch out for those pre-made ones stored in open stacks. No telling how long they have been there; when re-heated they are less than tasty. Besides, some crêperies are folding the crêpe before filling and that just won't do. Not to mention that in the course of a year, the on-street price has risen from about €2 to as high as €7.

Food prices in restaurants have risen dramatically too. And with the rise in price has come a decrease in quantity and (yes, this is possible) a decrease in service.

However, I must mention two restaurants that rate high on my list for value, quality and service.

The first is Les Trois Marmites. A tiny restaurant of only bout 35 seats, tucked away in the 20th arrondissement. The price has risen, but still below most prix fixe places (it is now €19). The food is outstanding. Everytime I take friends there they are somewhat dubious because it is out-of-the-way, but when they take their first bite, they are completely impressed. The flavors just explode in your mouth.

The menu changes regularly so it is hard to say what to have, but there are ample choices for 1st and 2nd plates as well as desserts. They also have a good wine list. Only caution: very warm inside during the summer and no outside seating. Be sure to make a reservation! No website; address: 8, Rue Julien Lacroix, 75020 Paris (Métro: Ménilmontant). Phone: 01 40 33 05 65. Hours: 8pm-2am; closed Monday. (Map)

The other location is La Maison de Verlaine. Situated in the house where the poet Paul Verlaine died from alcoholism and perhaps toxicity due to absinthe, the place is small and interesting. Food is good quality French, with some of the best Onion Soup I have ever had. It is now owned by a Greek family, so do not be surprised to find taramasalata on the menu! Located near the Sorbonne in the 5th arrondissement, friends don't moan about the distance, and are impressed by the taste. Wine list is good and the house wine is nice.

They offer several prix fixes some without wine and some with (from €12 to €24). Temperatures are warm inside during the summer but tolerable; worth the wait for an outside seat. Ask for Spiros. No website; address: 39, Rue Descartes, 75005 Paris (M&eaute;tro: Cardinal Lemoine). Phone: 01 43 26 39 15. (Map)

Tom

Where to Go for Gelato in Rome?

Wondering around Rome is a sure way to get very hot. And there is nothing more refreshing than a scoop or two of gelato. Like many things, gelato has origins full of romance, legend and downright mythology. And like other things, gelato can be really good or it can be really bad.

In Rome there are so many gelato shops that it can be hard to decide which is best. And it can also be a challenge to get back to the one you already know you like. Do you really want to ride the metro all the way back to Piazza di Spagna when you are at St. Paul's Outside the Wall?

Here are some suggestions for gelato shops near monuments and important sites.

If you find yourself at the Trevi Fountain dying for gelato, do yourself a favor a walk a little away from the fountain. San Crispino has been making a name for itself for some time, and has been ranked best by New York Times. Facing the fountain, turn to your right and head up Via del Lavatore. Just a minute or so up the road you will see Via della Panetteria (map) on your left. Turn left and watch for the shop at number 42 on the right. They are open late to accommodate those who are catching a view of the fountain at night.

Another site that has its fair share of gelato shops and can be very confusing is the Piazza Navona. Probably the best gelato (especially the specialty tartufo, invented here, a chocolate gelato truffle) is to be found at Tre Scalini. Standing at the Fountain of the Four Rivers, stand by the figure that seems to be shrieking in horror, looking at St. Agnes Church. Then look to your right along the buildings and find the first street. Just to the right, look for number 30 (map).

A lesser visited spot, the Piazza Vittorio Emanuele II yields a gelato gem. Try the gelateria Il Palazzo del Freddo di Giovanni Fassi. Besides great tasting gelato, you can also see some of the history of gelato making. Standing near the Giardini Piazza Vittorio, look for Via Princepe Eugenio and head to number 65-67 (map).

The Pantheon is a great location for a visit or just to take in the splendor of the sphere inside the church. But one place, the gelateria Giolitti offers more than the usual cup or cone of gelato. Instead you can get their special, 'copa Giolitti' and truly satisfy your gelato craving (you might want to relax a bit afterwards before walking on in the heat!). From in front of the Pantheon facing that great American restaurant with the big gold M, walk to your left down Via della Rosetta; continue on through Piazza Maddelena onto Via Maddelena. At the end of that road make a right and walk straight on until you run into Via degli Uffici del Vicario, just after Via Campo Marzio on your right. Watch for number 40 (map).

Any shopper knows that the Campo de' Fiori offers tons of bargains. But it also can be hot and exhausting. When you have picked through the market's offerings, take a well-deserved rest at Alberto Pica. It is a little bit of a walk, but head back toward the Monumento a Vittorio Emanuele II along Via dei Giubbonari. When you run into the wide Via Arenula, turn right (toward the river) then watch for Via della Seggiola on your right (about 5 minutes) turn into the street and look for number 12 (map).

Keep an eye out for more suggestions.

Enjoy!

Tom

Espresso redux

In a previous post (Gelato, Espresso and Water) I was bemoaning the rising cost of three staples of an Italian visit (and I dare say, life).

It is always a pleasant surprise when I find a high quality, highly recommended location that contradicts the ordinary.

Such is the case with the Café de Paris on Rome's Via Veneto.

The café found fame with Fellini's La Dolce Vita and has inspired celebrities and ordinary people ever since. Outside its walls you can find stills from the filming of Fellini's look at a young Roman's search for the elusive 'sweet' life that is nothing more than ephemeral. (See a summary of the movie at The Fellini Files.)

But inside the café is where the real suprise awaited me. I was asked by some friends to hunt down the location and to have an espresso. As has become somewhat usual, I was expressing doubt about finding a reasonably priced espresso in Rome, especially at such a place as this.

We arrived and were greeted warmly by the staff. After paying at the typical cash-desk before ordering, I was stunned that a single espresso was only 1 euro 60.

I was actually floored!

This is still not the 1000 lire of the past, but it is a far cry from the 5, 6, 7 euros I have seen elsewhere such as the Piazza Navona in Rome or the Piazza della Repubblica in Florence.

Kudos to you Café de Paris!

If you are in Rome or soon will be, you can taste the joy of the low price and the good espresso (remember this was a bar price) at Via Veneto, 90 (Metro: Barberini).

Tom

Gelato, Espresso and Water

Beware the rising prices of these fine and simple things of life in the Eternal City. Since the introduction of the Euro, prices in Rome have generally been soaring, but the price of these three staples are simply outrageous.

That is, at least, if you buy them in the tourist areas. A simple bottle of refreshing water at 26 eurocents in the grocery store can cost upwards of 3 euros by the Colosseum.

Gelato and espresso have gotten out of hand too. In the last year, I have seen the price of a 'piccola' rise from 1 Euro 50 to 3 Euros in some places. And every taxi driver can tell you that the price of espresso is a scam.

Starting with the falsehood that an espresso at 1000 lire would be more or less the same at 1 Euro, the boiling point of Italian and tourist blood is being pushed up further and further. Simple math will tell you that the prices are not the same. And now, that same cup of espresso is reaching toward 3 Euros!

I guess that the saying 'una vita non basta' should maybe be 'un euro non basta'.

Tom

Italian Wine History--an alternative?

Two Italian winemakers claim that the tradition of wine making in Italy comes from the Celts. They are so certain of this that they have established a 'Celtic farm' for vinting in the Celtic way. They intend to use profits from the sale of their wine to create a Celtic Cultural center. Read the Reuters story.

Tom